Copper pipe expands
allot when heated, I think it's 1 full inch for 100 feet of pipe, it
is the expansion of the pipe that causes all the noise. This is why,
most inexperienced plumbers don't make preparations for the
expansion and also don't sleeve the pipe properly, other big
mistakes are, when drilling holes to run the copper pipe from one
baseboard to another, the holes don't line up perfectly and the pipe
is forced in causing the pipe to be pushed tightly against the floor
joists. No insulators installed, this causes the pipe to rub against
the floor joists even if there in no pressure from being pinched,
Strapping the heat pipes tight against the bottom of the floor
joists will cause noise because the pipe will move no matter how
tight it is.
To solve this problem, install
insulators or use the wax paper or tar paper at every place the pipe
touches wood or other materials loosen all straps and wrap pipe with
tar or wax paper and don't make the straps tight.
Banging noises found
at the boiler are 1 big bang followed by a number of less load
bangs, like an echo. This noise is caused by a combination of air in
the system, a possibly defective expansion tank and a fast closing
zone valve. It's important to note: it may not have anything to do
with the expansion tank, I say this because so many people have the
expansion tank replaced and find they still have the problem. This
is what is causing the banging noise, One of the zone valves closes
while the circulator is still running, the fast closing zone valve
slams bouncing pressure against the expansion tank or air in the
system, the pressure bounces back pushing the zone valve open a
little and it repeats this a few times causing the echo banging
sound. The most common fast opening and fast closing zone valves are
Honeywell, Erie, The small White Rogers, Slow opening and slow
closing zone valves are the Taco and the large White Rogers zone
valves. I prefer the Taco zone valves over all the rest, except for
use on any indirect water heater, Taco zone valves open too slow for
indirect water heaters. It is not best to use zone valves on
indirect water heaters, because zone valves can get stuck open
causing the indirect water heater to be over stressed and can void
the warranty, A separate circulator is recommended.
Hot to solve this problem. First
thing to do is get the air out off your system then check to make
sure your expansion tank is in good working order. You can remove 1
spring from the inside of the zone valve, this will cause the zone
valve to close a little slower, or replace the fast closing zone
valve with a Taco zone valve.
like someone is hitting the pipes with a hammer.
On a hot water boiler, this sound can be very dangerous, check the
temperature gauge if it is above 220 degrees F. shut the boiler down
and call a heating Professional ASAP.
sounds like I am sleeping by a brook
or you can here the water flowing through the heat pipes. This is
simple you have air in your system.
How to solve this
problem, remove the air from your heating system